Karina, a member of the K-pop group aespa, has once again redefined "cool beauty" with a sophisticated smoky look that utilizes strategic shading to dramatically enlarge and define her ocular shape. Ahead of the release of their second full-length album, LEMONADE, on May 29, 2026, the group unveiled a stylish comeback trailer on the 27th. Behind-the-scenes photos shared by Karina on social media further highlighted her doll-like features and flawless symmetry, reinforcing her reputation as a quintessential "AI beauty."
Gray-toned shading: Maximizing the "metallic" concept
Since their debut, aespa has cultivated a visual identity that blends the metaverse with an AI-driven aesthetic. Their latest trailer pays homage to previous works like Savage and Whiplash, while hinting at new digital disruptions. Mirroring this lore, aespa’s makeup prioritizes sharp, defined features over a natural "bare-faced" look—a style known as their "metallic" concept.
While the group has explored various palettes—such as "mocha smoky" or the distressed "dirty-core" look—the LEMONADE era shifts toward a colder, monochromatic scale. By combining gray, ash, and silver pigments with a high-definition black liner—and keeping the skin and lips in a muted, low-saturation nude—the makeup achieves a sharp, intentionally artificial image that aligns with their futuristic identity.
Recreating the "four-way opening" eyeliner technique
The defining element of Karina’s gaze is a "four-way opening" technique. This method expands the eye area horizontally and vertically without "closing off" the eye with heavy, circular borders. Instead, the lines are drawn to elongate the eye laterally, making the gaze appear wider and more impactful.
To achieve this "four-way opening" effect:
Horizontal Lateral Extension: The upper eyeliner is extended toward the temple, drawn as close to a horizontal plane as possible rather than flicking upward.
Inner Corner Definition: The inner corner (the canthus) is defined slightly downward to sharpen the gaze and create a "ventral" opening.
Lower Lash Line Placement: Instead of following the natural waterline, the lower line is drawn slightly below the lashes, staying parallel to the upper line. This creates a gap that mimics a wider eye shape, emphasizing a chic, "AI-like" ocular structure.
The application of color is equally vital. A warm beige base is swept over the lid to neutralize the skin tone, followed by ash-gray shading on the outer corners to add depth. Layering charcoal gray buildable pigments creates a seamless gradient that mimics the depth of a 3D-rendered character. For a more wearable version, substituting harsh blacks with "soft gray" tones and blurring the lower borders creates a similarly sophisticated mood for everyday wear.
Removal and recovery: Protecting the delicate orbital area
With intense smoky looks, the removal process is as critical as the application. Because multiple layers of wax-based and powder pigments are applied to the thin skin around the eyes, simple cleansing is rarely sufficient and can lead to mechanical irritation or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
The secret to safe removal is allowing the makeup to dissolve through chemical breakdown rather than physical friction. Soak a cotton pad in a dedicated dual-phase eye makeup remover and hold it over the eye for at least 10 seconds. This suspends the pigments, allowing them to be wiped away gently. For residue trapped in the inter-marginal space between the lashes, a cotton swab dipped in remover is essential.
Follow up with a cleansing oil or balm to emulsify any remaining oils, and finish with a pH-balanced, low-irritation cleanser. Given the frequency of heavy makeup application, using a hydrating eye cream or a ceramide-rich moisturizer afterward is recommended to maintain the barrier function of the delicate skin around the eyes.
